11/11/2023 0 Comments Plaster weld lath bond![]() He did such a fine job of putting on compound, that this last step was more of a light dusting/buffing. The last step was lightly sanding the whole wall with a 3M sanding sponge. The idea is for the topping to fill in all of the minor imperfections. Only use the topping for the final thin layers, as it is softer than the general purpose. Then, depending, he would skim on another 1-2 coats of topping compound. Properly done, you could see the joint compound come up through the mat, without completely saturating it.Īfter drying overnight, he would skim on another tight coat of general purpose compound, and let that dry. He would add and extra 16-32 ounces of water to your normal general purpose compound, trowel on a thin coat, lay a piece of the Glid-Wall in the wet compound, then press/work it into the compound with his trowel. My plasterer put it on with a wet coat of general purpose drywall mud. In the original Glidden specification, it was to be put on with a special, primer, which I imagine would work. You can order it through your local, professional ICI Coatings store and it comes in large rolls (something like 3'x900'). Basically, this is a fine, fiberglass scrim fabric. The latter is a setting type joint compound.įinally, he went over the whole wall with a Glidden product called Glid-Wall. Depending on the location, he finished with a white coat plaster, or Durabond 45. Rough fill, to within 1/16" of the final surface, was done with Structo-lite, a brown coat plaster with perlite. If the spot was large, he supplemented the old wood lathe with modern expanded metal lathe, screwed to the old wood with drywall screws. Just like concrete, the slower you can make the cure, the stronger the final product. The bare plaster edges and wood lathe were painted with a product called Plaster Weld, which seals and keeps the old material/lathe from sucking the water from the plaster repair material before it has a chance to properly cure. Basically, if the wall was sound, but had significant spider cracking, and the occasional soft spot, he would repair.Īll soft spots were carefully cut back to the wood lathe, taking care to only cut out the bad and leave the still sound, and properly keyed surrounding material. ![]() He is a professional plasterer, and knows his stuff. In short, most work was done by the husband, Paul, of a workmate to my MIL. Wow, something I actually know a little about, having a 1905 house, and having repaired walls in every room. If you have bigger repairs there are easy ways to take care of those as well.Ĭompared to a modern sheetrock wall, an old plaster wall is amazingly solid feeling and a much, much flatter. it'll get you pretty high if you're not wearing a respirator, but it bonds to anything and will help smooth out any last surface defects. To gaurantee a good prime coat use the zinser brand shellac based primer. Some older plasters can be super hard and not very porous. (make sure there's a clean filter in the vacuum) Do yourself a favor while you're sanding and remove the dust collector bag and tape the exhaust to the hose of your wet/dry vac. Use wallpaper paste remover to get rid of the funky surface texture then sand smooth with a random orbital sander and 220 grit sand paper. My rule of thumb with plaster walls is that unless it is falling off by itself don't remove it.įix any cracks by widening them out in a V shape and filling them in with straight plaster of paris, then skim the surface of the repair with joint compund. ![]() ![]() I'm a contractor in NYC, and I come across a lot of old plaster walls in varying conditions.
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